Informations about bike trip in Central America
Path, steps and accommodations
You will find maps here
27/11/19 : Paris - Los Angeles Airport - Value Inn Worldwilde Motel. 4 km. Made the bike ready to go at the airport exit door
28/11/19 : raining all day in LA. Quick visit of downtown and Hollywood
D1. 29/11/19 : Los Angeles - San Clemente
112 km. 5h10
Night : House of Trestles
From the airport follow Century Boulevard toward the west to its end (about 25 km) and find the good bike path going down south along the river to Long Beach. Then take Pacífic Coast Highway all the way, it has a bike lane almost all along
D2. 30/11/19 : San Clemente - Solana Beach
60 km. 3h
Night : at Matthieu’s house, a french friend
Good bike path at the beginning. Then it gets to a military zone with permit needed. Had to take the busy freeway for 14 km but it has a good emergency line. After that, good bike lanes almost all the way
D3. 01/12/19 : Solana Beach - Tijuana
66 km. 3h45
Night : Hotel Aqua Rio
Bike lanes or bike path almost all the way. In San Diego took the ferry ($5, each hour) to ride through Coronado. When leaving USA, no office to put a buffer on passport certifying that you left the country, (they told me it is not needed). Change € in Tijuana, many casas de cambio in the street. Bought a Telcel SIM card in a Oxxo shop. For 10 € : 30 days, 1.5 Go internet (Whattapps, Facebook, Twitter, etc, already included), unlimited calls and sms to Mexico, USA, Canada
D4. 02/12/19 : Tijuana - Ensenada
108 km. 5h
Night : at Chema’s house, super Warmshowers contact
28/11/19 : raining all day in LA. Quick visit of downtown and Hollywood
D1. 29/11/19 : Los Angeles - San Clemente
112 km. 5h10
Night : House of Trestles
From the airport follow Century Boulevard toward the west to its end (about 25 km) and find the good bike path going down south along the river to Long Beach. Then take Pacífic Coast Highway all the way, it has a bike lane almost all along
D2. 30/11/19 : San Clemente - Solana Beach
60 km. 3h
Night : at Matthieu’s house, a french friend
Good bike path at the beginning. Then it gets to a military zone with permit needed. Had to take the busy freeway for 14 km but it has a good emergency line. After that, good bike lanes almost all the way
D3. 01/12/19 : Solana Beach - Tijuana
66 km. 3h45
Night : Hotel Aqua Rio
Bike lanes or bike path almost all the way. In San Diego took the ferry ($5, each hour) to ride through Coronado. When leaving USA, no office to put a buffer on passport certifying that you left the country, (they told me it is not needed). Change € in Tijuana, many casas de cambio in the street. Bought a Telcel SIM card in a Oxxo shop. For 10 € : 30 days, 1.5 Go internet (Whattapps, Facebook, Twitter, etc, already included), unlimited calls and sms to Mexico, USA, Canada
D4. 02/12/19 : Tijuana - Ensenada
108 km. 5h
Night : at Chema’s house, super Warmshowers contact
Took highway 1D most of the way because it has a emergency line and number 1 does not, with heavy traffic. Lane sometimes dirty anyway. Had a tire puncture with a piece of metal. Could pass the tolls hiking on the pavement, no problem with employees nor police.
D5. 03/12/19 : Ensenada - San Vicente
80 km. 3h40
Night : Mini Hotel Valentina
Busy road to leave Ensenada, 25 km long town, and after perfect road with little traffic and a good side line to ride
D6. 04/12/19 : San Vicente - San Quintín (Nuevo Mexicali)
104 km. 4h25
Night : Motel 3 Reyes
First 15 km perfect. Then it becomes quite dangerous, no side line, heavy traffic, just enough space for trucks to cross, making stressfull situations but many drivers take care, more or less same as in France
D7. 05/12/19 : San Quintin - Loncheria El Progresso
127 km. 6h
Night : wild camping in cactus land.
D5. 03/12/19 : Ensenada - San Vicente
80 km. 3h40
Night : Mini Hotel Valentina
Busy road to leave Ensenada, 25 km long town, and after perfect road with little traffic and a good side line to ride
D6. 04/12/19 : San Vicente - San Quintín (Nuevo Mexicali)
104 km. 4h25
Night : Motel 3 Reyes
First 15 km perfect. Then it becomes quite dangerous, no side line, heavy traffic, just enough space for trucks to cross, making stressfull situations but many drivers take care, more or less same as in France
D7. 05/12/19 : San Quintin - Loncheria El Progresso
127 km. 6h
Night : wild camping in cactus land.
This loncheria is closed. The best looking one and opened is the first one (El Sacrificio) a few kms before. Very nice road from el Rosario, little traffic. Many up and down.
D8. 06/12/19 : Loncheria El Progresso - 107 km further
107 km. 5h30
Night : wild camping
Very nice road, little traffic, quite flat, incredible cactus. Groceries and restaurants in San Antonio de las Minas (also called Cataviña)
D9. 07/12/19 : point of yesterday (about 10 km before road crossing to San Felipe) - Playa Esmeralda
132 km. 5h25
Night : camping in Playa Esmeralda, in Saul’s cabañas. Very nice family. They ask 100 pesos. Bring food and water although I was invited for dinner and breakfast. Wifi available in their house
Possible to find grocery and/or restaurant in road crossing to San Felipe), road crossing to Bahía de Los Angeles, Punta Prieta and Rosarito where there is also a hotel. Cabañas Esmeralda is about 20 km further Rosarito. When you get at the military check-point, take the off-road on right and always the one on the right (5 km from the road)
D10. 08/12/19 : Playa Esmeralda - Guerrero Negro
70 km - 3h10
Night : Saul from Playa Esmeralda host me in his Guerrero family house
Go straight for 70 kms ! Monotonous landscape
D11. 09/12/19 : rest in Guerrero Negro
20 km
Night : Saul’s family house
Visit of salt marshes with bicycle
D12. 10/12/19 : Guerrero Negro - San Ignacio
146 km. 6h
Night : La Casa del Cyclista. 100 pesos. Tent in the garden + shower.
Straight road for 80 km to El Marasal (or Vizcaino) then straight again almost to the end. Little traffic, but fast. Nice cactus.
D13. 11/22/19 : San Ignacio - Santa Rosalía
82 km. 4h30
Night : Hotel Olivera (nice, 450 pesos)
Nice road along Volcano de las Tres Virgenes. Little traffic. Front wind from the east all day
D14. 12/12/19 : Santa Rosalía - Mulegé
68 km. 3h
Night : RV Park Huerta Don Chano (200 pesos)
Nice road not busy. Made a stop in San Bruno
D15. 13/12/19 : Mulegé - Playa El Requeson
54 km. 2h50
Night : tent on beach, beautiful place, with few american’s van. Pray for them not to be too noisy when they start talking about their dog, their van and their fantastic life so high that everybody can hear as soon as 6 in the morning. Owner asked me 70 pesos for the tent that can be put below à shelter away from the wind. There are 2 others beaches a few kilometers further.
Beautiful road, little traffic, made a stop at Playa de Los Naranjos (not worth it, it’s bungalows, I had to negociate to stay a few minutes on the beach without paying) and Playa Santispac (nice for a stop)
D16. 14/12/19 : Playa El Requeson - Loreto
94 km. 4h10
Night : hotel El Moro (600 pesos, not worth it, dirty, anthill in the bed, wifi does not work)
Nice road, little traffic, going up and down mainly at the beginning and it’s end. Nice bar-restaurant to stop
21 km before Loreto, the man is very friendly
D17. 15/12/19 : Loreto - Adolfo Lopez Mateos
160 km. 7h15
Night : hôtel Villajaimez (500 pesos)
Very nice ascent after Ligui for a while on the mountains. Straight road after to Insurgentes, boring, especially with wind from the front. The end to Adolfo Lopez is nice, very little traffic and tarantulas on the road !
D18. 16/12/19 : rest in Adolfo López Mateos
D19. 17/12/29 : Aldolfo López Mateos - Las Pocitas
163 km. 6h20
Night : hotel of the Llantera (ask at the llantera on the right near exit of the village, they have rooms in front, 250 pesos)
Only straight lines day, traffic ok
D20. 18/12/19 : Las Pocitas - La Paz
115 km. 5h20
Night : Casa Bermejo (pension 290 pesos)
Nice mountains for a while, lots of wind from the front. Entering La Paz is not too scary
D21. 19/12/19 : La Paz - Pichilingue (ferry to Topolobampo)
20 km. 1h
Did not have ticket for the ferry (very busy around Christmas). I went there at 9h to be on a waiting list and finally got a ferry for trucks in the evening, taking some passengers. Mazatlan seems more busy then Topolobampo. There is another company except Bajaferries, called TCM, ferries for trucks only but they take passengers. Paid 1490 pesos with Bajaferries, including 200 for the bike
D22. 20/12/19 : Topolobampo - El Fuerte
134 km (including 20 inside Los Mochis for different things to manage). 6h10
Night : Hotel Guerrero (very nice, 400 pesos)
Another long straight road to start on main land, but safe with a shoulder most of the time
D23. 21/12/19 : rest in El Fuerte
D24. 22/12/19 : El Fuerte - train El Chepe to Bahuichivo - Cerocahui
26 km. 1h40
Night : I asked and could put my tent in the school yard. There is also a small and cheap hotel on the place in front of the church (Hotel Plaza).
To take El Chepe : the cheapest is to take El Chepe Regional Economico (3 times cheaper). Then you wait at the station of your choice and pay inside the train, BUT often the train is full and does not even stop. The surest is to get a ticket on El Chepe Regional Tourista. Then, you have to by the ticket on internet or directly at Los Mochis station. There is no office in other stations. To put the bike in the train you have to take the wheels and handlebar off. When entering the train car, mine could feet very well just behind the first seats where there is space. Otherwise there is a big space for suitcases, it might be possible to put it here as well
Bahuichivo has hotels, restaurants and groceries. Cerocahui has groceries as well. From Bahuichivo to Cerocahui the road is asphalt. To go further to Urique it becomes dirt road. I was told by A Cerocahui native who just did it a few days before that the off-road from Choix to Cerocahui if want to do it on bike takes 12h with a car, that there is no place to get food nor water and that the off-road has some parts with stones
D25. 23/12/19 : Cerocahui - Bahuichivo - Areponapuchi (Cooper Canyon views and Attraction Park)
66 km. 4h40
Night : bivouac in the forrest of the parking under nice pines. I asked to the people who sell the ticket to enter the place (25 pesos) if I could camp for the night. They say ok. Could find a great spot just on the edge of the canyon. They close the parking at 16h30, at 7h30 when I left it was open
Asphalt but hard road, many up and down very steep. Grocery’s in Bahuichivo and Areponapuchi
D26. 24/12/19 : Areponapuchi - Creel
51 km. 3h
Night : Hotel Real de Chapiltepec (400 pesos, nice hot shower)
Nice road, up and down, cold !
D27. 25/12/19 : Creel - Chihuahua- Durango
Weather forecast too cold and too windy for me to keep going towards Samachique - Guachochi - Parral on bike. Did not have à good feeling with the region neither, did not feel welcome, preferred not to take any risk. Took a bus at 10:15 to Chihuahua and then a night bus at 22:00 to Durango (arrived at 8:00) and got back that way to my original plan if I Had got a ferry to Mazatlan from La Paz
D28. 26/12/19 : Durango - Parque Sierra de Organos - Sombrerete
145 km. 6h30
Night : Hotel (500 pesos)
Nice secure road with lateral band. Beautiful landscapes around Sierra de Organos, met people very friendly all along the way
D29. 27/12/19 : Sombrerete - Fresnillo
109 km. 4h40
Night : Hotel Mexico on south side of the city (250 pesos)
Road quite busy but side line all the way
D30. 28/12/19 : Fresnillo - Zacatecas
59 km. 2h40
Night : hostel Cielito Lindo (230 pesos)
Road ok except some sections without side line
D31. 29/12/19 : rest in Zacatecas
D32. 30/12/19 : Zacatecas - Aguascalientes
119 km. 5h
Night : Miguel’s house (Warmshowers)
Took the 45D. First part a little dangerous, side line with holes, careful when it goes down. Busy road all the way, fortunately with a side line almost all the way
D8. 06/12/19 : Loncheria El Progresso - 107 km further
107 km. 5h30
Night : wild camping
Very nice road, little traffic, quite flat, incredible cactus. Groceries and restaurants in San Antonio de las Minas (also called Cataviña)
D9. 07/12/19 : point of yesterday (about 10 km before road crossing to San Felipe) - Playa Esmeralda
132 km. 5h25
Night : camping in Playa Esmeralda, in Saul’s cabañas. Very nice family. They ask 100 pesos. Bring food and water although I was invited for dinner and breakfast. Wifi available in their house
Possible to find grocery and/or restaurant in road crossing to San Felipe), road crossing to Bahía de Los Angeles, Punta Prieta and Rosarito where there is also a hotel. Cabañas Esmeralda is about 20 km further Rosarito. When you get at the military check-point, take the off-road on right and always the one on the right (5 km from the road)
D10. 08/12/19 : Playa Esmeralda - Guerrero Negro
70 km - 3h10
Night : Saul from Playa Esmeralda host me in his Guerrero family house
Go straight for 70 kms ! Monotonous landscape
D11. 09/12/19 : rest in Guerrero Negro
20 km
Night : Saul’s family house
Visit of salt marshes with bicycle
D12. 10/12/19 : Guerrero Negro - San Ignacio
146 km. 6h
Night : La Casa del Cyclista. 100 pesos. Tent in the garden + shower.
Straight road for 80 km to El Marasal (or Vizcaino) then straight again almost to the end. Little traffic, but fast. Nice cactus.
D13. 11/22/19 : San Ignacio - Santa Rosalía
82 km. 4h30
Night : Hotel Olivera (nice, 450 pesos)
Nice road along Volcano de las Tres Virgenes. Little traffic. Front wind from the east all day
D14. 12/12/19 : Santa Rosalía - Mulegé
68 km. 3h
Night : RV Park Huerta Don Chano (200 pesos)
Nice road not busy. Made a stop in San Bruno
D15. 13/12/19 : Mulegé - Playa El Requeson
54 km. 2h50
Night : tent on beach, beautiful place, with few american’s van. Pray for them not to be too noisy when they start talking about their dog, their van and their fantastic life so high that everybody can hear as soon as 6 in the morning. Owner asked me 70 pesos for the tent that can be put below à shelter away from the wind. There are 2 others beaches a few kilometers further.
Beautiful road, little traffic, made a stop at Playa de Los Naranjos (not worth it, it’s bungalows, I had to negociate to stay a few minutes on the beach without paying) and Playa Santispac (nice for a stop)
D16. 14/12/19 : Playa El Requeson - Loreto
94 km. 4h10
Night : hotel El Moro (600 pesos, not worth it, dirty, anthill in the bed, wifi does not work)
Nice road, little traffic, going up and down mainly at the beginning and it’s end. Nice bar-restaurant to stop
21 km before Loreto, the man is very friendly
D17. 15/12/19 : Loreto - Adolfo Lopez Mateos
160 km. 7h15
Night : hôtel Villajaimez (500 pesos)
Very nice ascent after Ligui for a while on the mountains. Straight road after to Insurgentes, boring, especially with wind from the front. The end to Adolfo Lopez is nice, very little traffic and tarantulas on the road !
D18. 16/12/19 : rest in Adolfo López Mateos
D19. 17/12/29 : Aldolfo López Mateos - Las Pocitas
163 km. 6h20
Night : hotel of the Llantera (ask at the llantera on the right near exit of the village, they have rooms in front, 250 pesos)
Only straight lines day, traffic ok
D20. 18/12/19 : Las Pocitas - La Paz
115 km. 5h20
Night : Casa Bermejo (pension 290 pesos)
Nice mountains for a while, lots of wind from the front. Entering La Paz is not too scary
D21. 19/12/19 : La Paz - Pichilingue (ferry to Topolobampo)
20 km. 1h
Did not have ticket for the ferry (very busy around Christmas). I went there at 9h to be on a waiting list and finally got a ferry for trucks in the evening, taking some passengers. Mazatlan seems more busy then Topolobampo. There is another company except Bajaferries, called TCM, ferries for trucks only but they take passengers. Paid 1490 pesos with Bajaferries, including 200 for the bike
D22. 20/12/19 : Topolobampo - El Fuerte
134 km (including 20 inside Los Mochis for different things to manage). 6h10
Night : Hotel Guerrero (very nice, 400 pesos)
Another long straight road to start on main land, but safe with a shoulder most of the time
D23. 21/12/19 : rest in El Fuerte
D24. 22/12/19 : El Fuerte - train El Chepe to Bahuichivo - Cerocahui
26 km. 1h40
Night : I asked and could put my tent in the school yard. There is also a small and cheap hotel on the place in front of the church (Hotel Plaza).
To take El Chepe : the cheapest is to take El Chepe Regional Economico (3 times cheaper). Then you wait at the station of your choice and pay inside the train, BUT often the train is full and does not even stop. The surest is to get a ticket on El Chepe Regional Tourista. Then, you have to by the ticket on internet or directly at Los Mochis station. There is no office in other stations. To put the bike in the train you have to take the wheels and handlebar off. When entering the train car, mine could feet very well just behind the first seats where there is space. Otherwise there is a big space for suitcases, it might be possible to put it here as well
Bahuichivo has hotels, restaurants and groceries. Cerocahui has groceries as well. From Bahuichivo to Cerocahui the road is asphalt. To go further to Urique it becomes dirt road. I was told by A Cerocahui native who just did it a few days before that the off-road from Choix to Cerocahui if want to do it on bike takes 12h with a car, that there is no place to get food nor water and that the off-road has some parts with stones
D25. 23/12/19 : Cerocahui - Bahuichivo - Areponapuchi (Cooper Canyon views and Attraction Park)
66 km. 4h40
Night : bivouac in the forrest of the parking under nice pines. I asked to the people who sell the ticket to enter the place (25 pesos) if I could camp for the night. They say ok. Could find a great spot just on the edge of the canyon. They close the parking at 16h30, at 7h30 when I left it was open
Asphalt but hard road, many up and down very steep. Grocery’s in Bahuichivo and Areponapuchi
D26. 24/12/19 : Areponapuchi - Creel
51 km. 3h
Night : Hotel Real de Chapiltepec (400 pesos, nice hot shower)
Nice road, up and down, cold !
D27. 25/12/19 : Creel - Chihuahua- Durango
Weather forecast too cold and too windy for me to keep going towards Samachique - Guachochi - Parral on bike. Did not have à good feeling with the region neither, did not feel welcome, preferred not to take any risk. Took a bus at 10:15 to Chihuahua and then a night bus at 22:00 to Durango (arrived at 8:00) and got back that way to my original plan if I Had got a ferry to Mazatlan from La Paz
D28. 26/12/19 : Durango - Parque Sierra de Organos - Sombrerete
145 km. 6h30
Night : Hotel (500 pesos)
Nice secure road with lateral band. Beautiful landscapes around Sierra de Organos, met people very friendly all along the way
D29. 27/12/19 : Sombrerete - Fresnillo
109 km. 4h40
Night : Hotel Mexico on south side of the city (250 pesos)
Road quite busy but side line all the way
D30. 28/12/19 : Fresnillo - Zacatecas
59 km. 2h40
Night : hostel Cielito Lindo (230 pesos)
Road ok except some sections without side line
D31. 29/12/19 : rest in Zacatecas
D32. 30/12/19 : Zacatecas - Aguascalientes
119 km. 5h
Night : Miguel’s house (Warmshowers)
Took the 45D. First part a little dangerous, side line with holes, careful when it goes down. Busy road all the way, fortunately with a side line almost all the way
D33. 31/12/19 : rest in Aguascalientes
D34. 01/01/20 : rest in Aguascalientes
D35. 02/01/20 : rest in Aguascalientes (rain)
D36. 03/01/20 : Aguascalientes - Guanajuato
194 km. 8h25
Night : hostal Seis 7, calle de Alonso. 150 pesos, good
Took 45D to Lagos de Moreno, then took the south round link to 45 to Leon. You will find a cycle path from Parque Metropolitan (lake) to the beginning of 45. To Silao it’s awful, a lot of traffic, then better. Entering Guanajuato is tricky.
D37. 04/01/20 : rest in Guanajuato
D38. 05/01/20 : Guanajuato - San Miguel de Allende
80 km. 3h35
Night : Hostal La Catrina (160 pesos)
Nice road among hills. No side line but traffic cool
D39. 06/01/20 : rest in San Miguel
D40. 07/01/20 : San Miguel de Allende - Querétaro
66 km. 2h50
Night : hostal La Girafa Roja (super, 220 pesos)
Crowed road to get in town, side line ok
D41. 08/01/20 : rest in Querétaro
D42. 09/01/20 : Querétaro - Tequisquiapan - Huichapan (road 200 and 30) - Nopala - Tula (road 21)
169 km. 7h
Night : hotel Quinta Bella (500 pesos)
Small nice roads with some section of bad pavement
D43. 10/01/20 : Tula - Colonia Santa Teresa (road 87) - Huehuetoca - San Juan Zitlaltepec - Los Reyes Acozac - Tecamac - Teotihuacán (San Sebastian Xolalpa)
92 km. 4h25
Night : hotel Quetzalcalli, they have a nice campground for 200 pesos Busy roads among smalls towns but touching each other. Some terrible pavement
D44. 11/01/20 : rest in Teotihuacán
D45. 12/01/20 : Teotihuacán - Ciudad de Mexico (Coyoacan)
67 km. 2h50
Night : house of my friends Alexandra and Olivier
Took 132D and 85D until Indios Verdes exit, quiet highway on a early sunday morning. Then Calzada de Guadalupe. Since it was sunday I took advantage of the Paseo Dominical : every sunday except the last one of the month, some boulevards are only opens to cyclists
D46. 13/01/20 : rest in Ciudad de México
D47. 14/01/20 : rest in Ciudad de México
D48. 15/01/20 : rest in Ciudad de México
D49. 16/01/20 : Ciudad de México - Tepoztlán
75 km. 3h05
Night : Ekko Hostal (camped, 150 pesos, very nice place)
Took Insurgentes Sur, then 95D, escape line is ok most of the time
D50. 17/01/20 : Tepoztlán - Cuautla - Tehuitzingo
144 km. 6h
Night : hotel Gutiérrez (250 pesos)
Nice mountain roads (160 and 190)
D51. 18/01/20 : Tehuitzingo - Huajuapan
107 km. 5h30
Night : hotel Valladoid (180 pesos)
Very nice ride in the mountains, more uphill than downhill !
D52. 19/01/20 : Huajuapan - Oaxaca
174 km. 8h10
Night : hostal Cielo Rojo (160 pesos)
Beautiful mountain road. From Asunción Nochictlan, took 190 D because it was going to rain, good side line except at the end
D53. 20/01/20 : Oaxaca - San José de Gracia (Quiechapa)
114 km. 4h55
Night : hotel San Jose (250 pesos)
Fantastic mountain road (190). Left at noon after visiting touristic center in Oaxaca (don’t miss Templo de Santo Domingo inside décoration) and make a stop to see incredible Santa Maria de Tule tree
D54. 21/01/20 : San José de Gracia - Juchitán de Zaragoza
168 km. 7h50
Night : camp at bomberos at the town exit. They are very nice
Beautiful mountains roads until Tehuantepec. Then I got really strong horrible winds that almost made me fall and crazy drivers. But fortunately there is a side line
D55. 22/01/20 : Juchitán de Zaragoza - Cintalapa
185 km. 8h40
Night : hotel Leos (400 pesos)
Very strong winds till Santo Domingo Ingenio where it drops. Got very scared again for a while. If strong winds announced, take a combi bus from Tehuantepec to Santo Domingo Ingenio, looks like there are many. After San Pedro Tanapatepec, very nice 20 km climb, then it goes slowly down
D56. 23/01/20 : Cintalapa - San Cristobal de las Casas
140 km. 7h25
Night : hostal Qhia (100 pesos, very nice)
Took 190D. Crossing Tuxla was not very nice, long town. Took Libramiento Norte. Then you start a 40 km uphill all the same direction from 400 m to 2200 m. I found drivers were a bit crazy in this part. Watch out what is going on behind
D57. 24/01/20 : rest in San Cristobal
D58. 25/01/20 : rest in San Cristobal
D59. 26/01/20 : rest in San Cristobal
D60. 27/01/20 : San Cristobal de las Casas - Cenote Chukumaltik (south of Tzimol)
131 km. 5h55
Night : camp at the cenote
Took road 101 and 226 from Teopisca. To get to the fantastic and quiet cenote, take on the right the road to San Francisco la Primavera / Santa Rita Uninajab. After 2 or 3 km you will find sign on the left
D61. 28/01/20 : Cenote Chukumaltik - Tziscao (Lagos Montebello)
99 km. 5h00
Night : camping at Villa Tziscao (lake shore, nice, 80 pesos)
Took time in Comitan to arrange a few things before going for wilder
D62. 29/01/20 : Tziscao - Nuevo Orizaba
154 km. 7h10
Night : at the grocery / hospedaje 200 m after hotel Sanchez, left side of the road when leaving the village (100 pesos, the woman is not very nice). Could also buy a Tigo chip card there since only Guatemala red works around here.
Fantastic ride, very quiet, jungle landscape and nice people
D63. 30/01/20 : Nuevo Orizaba - Bethel (Guatemala)
162 km. 7h40
Night : asked someone in the street who sent me to a private house where people often camp
Quiet road, often damaged until Benemerito. A little boring after, landscapes are less surprising. Prepare 30 pesos to entrer village Frontera Corozal. I found someone in the main street for the boat to cross Rio Usumacinta to La Tecnica. Took me 100 pesos with the bike. Go to immigration office first, about 400 m before the river on the right. Could change money in the street getting to La Tecnica. 100 pesos = 41 quetzal. The dirt-road to Bethel is ok.
D64. 31/01/20 : Bethel - Flores
139 km. 6h30
Night : hostal Casa de Grethel (80 Gtq)
There is 60 km of ok dirt-road from Bethel and after it’s road. Could manage it easy with small 30mm tires. Even ok if it is raining I think.
D65. 01/02/20 : rest in Flores
D66. 02/02/20 : Flores - Yaxha
74 km. 3h35
Night : camping free under palapa at the entrance of the park. I bought water and food in La Maquina before the off-road. It’s possible to buy water at the camping or park entrance and also to order a meal or breakfast (40 Gtq each)
D67. 03/02/20 : Yaxha - Nakum - Yaxha
37 km. 3h55
Night : camping Yaxha
Nakum is a archeologic site very salvage 17 km north of Yaxha. The off-road to go there is ok but in the central section it is muddy for about 4 km. Had to carry the bike sometimes
D68. 04/02/20 : Yaxha - Chacte
175 km. 9h05
Night : camping at the gazolinea at the village exit on the right. Free
Took CA13 direction Belize then the dirt-road to the south through what they call El Najanro on Google Map. Dirt road is easy except the last 20 km that will kick your ass
D69. 05/02/20 : Chacte - Mariscos
146 km. 6h10
Night : camping in the house of someone
Do not miss a Tapado soup under the bridge in Rio Dulce. Very scary road (main road between Puerto Barrios and Guatemala Ciudad) from Morales to crossroad to Mariscos. Truck drivers just want to kill you. It is possible to camp on the beach at the north side of the village
D70. 06/02/20 : Zacapa - Santa Ana (Salvador)
145 km. 7h10
Night : Hostal Casa Verde ($12, very very nice place)
Got too scared the day before with the trucks on this main road. I luckily found in Mariscos a guy going to Zacapa with his car and decided to avoid these 100 km on this main road of Guatemala. The border Angiatu was easy to cross. I changed money with someone in the street (100 Quetzal for $12.5)
D71. 07/02/20 : Santa Ana - Parque del Cerro Verde
46 km. 3h30
Night : camping free on the parking (police stay there during the night)
Nice uphill ! Beautiful sunset on Volcano Izalco. I took the highway leaving Santa Ana, it was ok (shoulder) but I think the other is more quiet. Got rained during the night, there was a cloud only on this mountain !
D72. 08/02/20 : Cerro Verde - El Tunco
127 km. 5h05
Night : Kali Hostal ($8)
Panamerican section to Sonsonate was ok, good shoulder. The road along the coast was quiet but sometimes there are trucks
D73. 09/02/20 : El Tunco - San Miguel
170 km. 7h30
Night : hotel Claire’s ($23)
Shoulder all along but bicycles are just invisible to everybody so be careful
D74. 10/02/20 : San Miguel - Choluteca (Honduras)
147 km. 7h20
Night : bomberos
Rought traffic but shoulder ok in Honduras. No problem at border, they ask $3. Could change money on the street
D75. 11/02/20 : Choluteca - León (Nicaragua)
166 km. 7h20
Night : Hostal Poco a Poco (very nice)
A long day, had to wait more than 2 hours at the border. Asked me many questions. Maybe it’s quicker if you fill before the immigration form on internet. Had to make 2 copies of my passport (main page + the one with Guatemala entry). Better to have them before (had to walk to a shop to make it). Prepare $12, they don’t have change and not possible to pay with Cordoba. No stamp on the passport, just keep the the receipt for entry tax. Could change money on the street, even €. To get to León I took 24 to Chinandega from where it got very busy. Shoulder most of the time.
D76. 12/02/20 : rest in León
D77. 13/02/20 : rest in León
D78. 14/02/20 : rest in León
D79. 15/02/20 : rest in León
D80. 16/02/20 : León - Granada
120 km + 15 km by “chicken bus” because of strong wind, was scared to fall
Night : hostal Azul
Took route 3, to the entrance of Managua, very quiet (on a sunday) with a shoulder. Number 4 was busier but still ok with a shoulder
D81. 17/02/20 : rest in Granada
D82. 18/02/20 : Granada - Santa Cruz (Ometepe Island)
108 km. 5h
Night : Hostal El Zepilote
No shoulder on the road but traffic generally ok. Paid 35 C$ to enter the port, then 9 for a tax on bicycle, then 50 for the ferry then 30 for the ferry on the bike. Nice ride on the island along 64 via San José del Sur
D83. 19/02/2020 : Santa Cruz (Ometepe) - La Cruz (Costa Rica)
91 km. 4h35
Night : hotel Cabinas Santa Rita (owner is unpleasant)
From Santa Cruz went back to Moyogalpa via the north side of the island. Dirt road but ok from Altagracia to a few km before Moyogalpa. Paid $2 to exit Nicaragua, nothing to enter Costa Rica but they ask for a exit proof (many shops on the border to buy an exit bus ticket)
D84. 20/02/20 : La Cruz - Bijagua
113 km. 6h15
Night : was offered a free camp below a roof in front of a hotel
Quiet roads, jungle, green landscapes, warm rain, a perfect day ! Took road 4 to Upala then 6. It is a dirt road from Santa Cecilia to more or less 15 km further
D85. 21/02/20 : Bijaguas - La Fortuna
97 km. 5h10
Night : Arenal Backpackers Resort
Took road 6 then off-road 927 then 142. Very nice ride, little traffic, beautiful views, except the last 5 km that are busy. 927 has its first 5 km made of slippery grit. After it’s ok and asphalt road starts close to Tierras Morenas. Many up and down
D86. 22/02/20 : rest in La Fortuna
D87. 23/02/20 : La Fortuna - Puerto Limón
150 km. 6h40 (+95 km bus from Guapiles)
Night : hôtel Los Angeles (C 10000)
From La Fortuna took 702, 738, 141 to Ciudad Quesada. Nice small road but with some touristic traffic. Nice up hill to get to Ciudad Quesada. Then 140 to Aguas Zarcas, nice road on a mountain balcony but windy and some trafic. Then 250, 751 and 4 to Guapiles. Shoulder at the beginning on 4. Then narrow but on a sunday traffic was not too crazy. Had decided from a long time to take a bus from there to Limón because supposed to be very dangerous. Caught a bus at 4 PM. Paid C 3200. I disassembled the bike because they told me to when I bought the ticket but it would have fit like this.
D88. 24/02/20 : Puerto Limón - Cahuita
45 km. 1h45
Night : hostal Hakuna Matata
Nice road along the Caribean Sea, not much traffic but fast drivers
D89. 25/02/20 : rest in Cahuita (hostal Secret Garden, owners unpleasant)
D90. 26/02/20 : Cahuita - Duruy - Cahuita
75 km. 4h15
Night : hostal Secret Garden
Went back to Penshurt, then Pandora (234) and took nice dirt-roads trying to cross until Shiroles and Bribri. Had to return in the middle (village called Duruy on Open Cycle Maps) because it became a trail for 10 km from what people told me. Nice ride anyway among quiet places
D91. 27/02/20 : Cahuita - Manzanillo - Puerto Viejo
48 km. 2h10
Night : camping at Oasis Hostal
Very nice beaches especially in Punta Uva
D92. 28/02/20 : Puerto Viejo (Costa Rica) - Boca del Drago (Panama)
115 km. 5h00
Night : camp at someone’s house
Very nice road from Bribri to the border. You will have to pay an exit tax $9 or C6000 (pay it at some dedicated shops just before the exit). Nothing to enter Panama. Waited an hour, many tourist from Costa Rica going to Bocas del Toro. Road in a bad state until Almirante. Strong hills from Changuinola. Paid $14 with return for the lancha to Bocas del Toro. From there small road with many holes to the end
D93. 29/02/20 : rest in Boca del Drago
D94. 01/03/20 : Boca del Drago - Lago Brazo de Hornito (Fortuna Dam)
127 km. 7h
Night : free camping at visitor centers (a guard stays all night). It is possible to buy food in the street at the dam.
Beautiful and steep hills ! Fantastic jungle landscapes after Almirante. From Rambála to a few kilometers before the lake it is very steep ! Not much traffic but sometimes too fast and too close, quality of the road always changing
D95. 02/03/29 : Fortuna Dam - Playa Las Lajas
130 km. 6h05
Night : camping at Hostal Johnny Fiestas ($5, super place)
Still some nice and steep hills at the beginning. Then it goes dawn to the Pacific side, quality of the road always changing, they are working on it. Panamericana was very quiet with a nice shoulder most of the time. Las Lajas is a fantastic and quiet beach. No supermarket, buy at the last village
D96. 03/03/20 : rest in Playa Las Lajas
20 km. 50 min
Went to the village to buy food
D97. 04/03/20 : Playa Las Lajas - Soná
118 km. 5h
Night : bomberos Soná
Went back to the Panamerican then took #5. Nice road incredibly quiet with good landscapes and nice hills. Had 2 punctures !
D98. 05/03/20 : Soná - Penonomé
154 km. 6h50
Night : bomberos Penonomé
Panamerican gets busier but still ok. Sometimes dirty shoulder. Had 3 punctures. Finally found the guilty in the evening, a invisible piece of metal just getting out enough to make the punctures after a few kilometers but never at the moment of repairing
D99. 06/03/20 : Penonomé - Playa Gorgona
90 km. 4h35
Night : Hospedaje Villamar ($20, nice)
Went to El Valle de Antón via Churuquita Grande, Caimito. Nice countryside road with the steepest hills of the trip ! Went back to Panamerican on road 71 from El Valle. Highway was ok after, with a shoulder
D100. 07/03/20 : Playa Gorgona - Panama City
89 km. 4h20
Night : Hostal Zebulo
I was thinking to enter the city next day (sunday early in the morning) but finally the traffic was not so heavy on a saturday afternoon. Shoulder ok most of the way except on Puente de Americas but cars do not go too fast on it. After the bridge, take “Avenidad de Los Poetas” on the right, getting then in front of Maracana Stadium. After, take the Cinta Costera around Casco Antiguo. At the end of it there is a cycle path along the coast