Infos pratiques parcours

Informations about bike trip in Central America
Path, steps and accommodations 


27/11/19
: Paris - Los Angeles Airport - Value Inn Worldwilde Motel. 4 km. Made the bike ready to go at the airport exit door


28/11/19 : raining all day in LA. Quick visit of downtown and Hollywood

D1. 29/11/19 : Los Angeles - San Clemente
112 km. 5h10
Night : House of Trestles
Road infos : from the airport follow Century Boulevard toward the west to its end (about 25 km) and find the good bike path going down south along the river to Long Beach. Then take Pacífic Coast Highway all the way, it has a bike lane almost all along

D2. 30/11/19 : San Clemente - Solana Beach
60 km. 3h
Night : at Matthieu’s house, a french friend
Road infos : good bike path at the beginning. Then it gets to a military zone with permit needed. Had to take the busy freeway for 14 km but it has a good emergency line. After that, good bike lanes almost all the way

D3. 01/12/19 : Solana Beach - Tijuana
66 km. 3h45
Night : Hotel Aqua Rio
Road infos : bike lanes or bike path almost all the way. In San Diego took the ferry ($5, each hour) to ride through Coronado. When leaving USA, no office to put a buffer on passport certifying that you left the country, (they told me it is not needed). Change € in Tijuana, many casas de cambio in the street. Bought a Telcel SIM card in a Oxxo shop. For 10 € : 30 days, 1.5 Go internet (Whattapps, Facebook, Twitter, etc, already included), unlimited calls and sms to Mexico, USA, Canada

D4. 02/12/19 : Tijuana - Ensenada
108 km. 5h
Night : at Chema’s house, super Warmshowers contact
Road infos : took highway 1D most of the way because it has a emergency line and number 1 does not, with heavy traffic. Lane sometimes dirty anyway. Had a tire puncture with a piece of metal. Could pass the tolls hiking on the pavement, no problem with employees nor police.

D5. 03/12/19 : Ensenada - San Vicente
80 km. 3h40
Night : Mini Hotel Valentina
Road infos : busy road to leave Ensenada, 25 km long town, and after perfect road with little traffic and a good side line to ride

D6. 04/12/19 : San Vicente - San Quintín (Nuevo Mexicali)
104 km. 4h25
Night : Motel 3 Reyes
Road infos : first 15 km perfect. Then it becomes quite dangerous, no side line, heavy traffic, just enough space for trucks to cross, making stressfull situations but many drivers take care, more or less same as in France

D7. 05/12/19 : San Quintin - Loncheria El  Progresso
127 km. 6h
Night : wild camping in cactus land. Road infos : this loncheria is closed. The best looking one and opened is the first one (El Sacrificio) a few kms before. Very nice road from el Rosario, little traffic. Many up and down.

D8. 06/12/19 : Loncheria El Progresso - 107 km further
107 km. 5h30
Night : wild camping
Road infos : very nice road, little traffic, quite flat, incredible cactus. Groceries and restaurants in San Antonio de las Minas (also called Cataviña)

D9. 07/12/19 : point of yesterday (about 10 km before road crossing to San Felipe) - Playa Esmeralda
132 km. 5h25
Night : camping in Playa Esmeralda, in Saul’s cabañas. Very nice family. They ask 100 pesos. Bring food and water although I was invited for dinner and breakfast. Wifi available in their house
Road infos : possible to find grocery and/or restaurant in road crossing to San Felipe), road crossing to Bahía de Los Angeles, Punta Prieta and Rosarito where there is also a hotel. Cabañas Esmeralda is about 20 km further Rosarito. When you get at the military check-point, take the off-road on right and always the one on the right (5 km from the road)

D10. 08/12/19 : Playa Esmeralda - Guerrero Negro
70 km - 3h10
Night : Saul from Playa Esmeralda host me in his Guerrero family house
Road infos : go straight for 70 kms ! Monotonous landscape

D11. 09/12/19 : rest in Guerrero Negro
20 km
Night : Saul’s family house
Visit of salt marshes with bicycle

D12. 10/12/19 : Guerrero Negro - San Ignacio
146 km. 6h
Night : La Casa del Cyclista. 100 pesos. Tent in the garden + shower.
Straight road for 80 km to El Marasal (or Vizcaino) then straight again almost to the end. Little traffic, but fast. Nice cactus.

D13. 11/22/19 : San Ignacio - Santa Rosalía
82 km. 4h30
Night : Hotel Olivera (nice, 450 pesos)
Nice road along Volcano de las Tres Virgenes. Little traffic. Front wind from the east all day

D14. 12/12/19 : Santa Rosalía - Mulegé
68 km. 3h
Night : RV Park Huerta Don Chano (200 pesos)
Nice road not busy. Made a stop in San Bruno

D15. 13/12/19 : Mulegé - Playa El Requeson
54 km. 2h50
Night : tent on beach, beautiful place, with few american’s van. Pray for them not to be too noisy when they start talking about their dog, their van and their fantastic life so high that everybody can hear as soon as 6 in the morning. Owner asked me 70 pesos for the tent that can be put below à shelter away from the wind. There are 2 others beaches a few kilometers further.
Beautiful road, little traffic, made a stop at Playa de Los Naranjos (not worth it, it’s bungalows, I had to negociate to stay a few minutes on the beach without paying) and Playa Santispac (nice for a stop)

D16. 14/12/19 : Playa El Requeson - Loreto
94 km. 4h10
Night : hotel El Moro (600 pesos, not worth it, dirty, anthill in the bed, wifi does not work)
Nice road, little traffic, going up and down mainly at the beginning and it’s end. Nice bar-restaurant to stop
21 km before Loreto, the man is very friendly

D17. 15/12/19 : Loreto - Adolfo Lopez Mateos
160 km. 7h15
Night : hôtel Villajaimez (500 pesos)
Very nice ascent after Ligui for a while on the mountains. Straight road after to Insurgentes, boring, especially with wind from the front. The end to Adolfo Lopez is nice, very little traffic and tarantulas on the road !

D18. 16/12/19 : rest in Adolfo López Mateos

D19. 17/12/29 : Aldolfo López Mateos - Las Pocitas
163 km. 6h20
Night : hotel of the Llantera (ask at the llantera on the right near exit of the village, they have rooms in front, 250 pesos)
Only straight lines day, traffic ok

D20. 18/12/19 : Las Pocitas - La Paz
115 km. 5h20
Night : Casa Bermejo (pension 290 pesos)
Nice mountains for a while, lots of wind from the front. Entering La Paz is not too scary

D21. 19/12/19 : La Paz - Pichilingue (ferry to Topolobampo)
20 km. 1h
Did not have ticket for the ferry (very busy around Christmas). I went there at 9h to be on a waiting list and finally got a ferry for trucks in the evening, taking some passengers. Mazatlan seems more busy then Topolobampo. There is another company except Bajaferries, called TCM, ferries for trucks only but they take passengers. Paid 1490 pesos with Bajaferries, including 200 for the bike

D22. 20/12/19 : Topolobampo - El Fuerte
134 km (including 20 inside Los Mochis for different things to manage). 6h10
Night : Hotel Guerrero (very nice, 400 pesos)
Another long straight road to start on main land, but safe with a shoulder most of the time

D23. 21/12/19 : rest in El Fuerte

D24. 22/12/19 : El Fuerte - train El Chepe to Bahuichivo - Cerocahui
26 km. 1h40
Night : I asked and could put my tent in the school yard. There is also a small and cheap hotel on the place in front of the church (Hotel Plaza).
To take El Chepe : the cheapest is to take El Chepe Regional Economico (3 times cheaper). Then you wait at the station of your choice and pay inside the train, BUT often the train is full and does not even stop. The surest is to get a ticket on El Chepe Regional Tourista. Then, you have to by the ticket on internet or directly at Los Mochis station. There is no office in other stations. To put the bike in the train you have to take the wheels and handlebar off. When entering the train car, mine could feet very well just behind the first seats where there is space. Otherwise there is a big space for suitcases, it might be possible to put it here as well
Bahuichivo has hotels, restaurants and groceries. Cerocahui has groceries as well. From Bahuichivo to Cerocahui the road is asphalt. To go further to Urique it becomes dirt road. I was told by A Cerocahui native who just did it a few days before that the off-road from Choix to Cerocahui if want to do it on bike takes 12h with a car, that there is no place to get food nor water and that the off-road has some parts with stones

D25. 23/12/19 : Cerocahui - Bahuichivo - Areponapuchi (Cooper Canyon views and Attraction Park)
66 km. 4h40
Night : bivouac in the forrest of the parking under nice pines. I asked to the people who sell the ticket to enter the place (25 pesos) if I could camp for the night. They say ok. Could find a great spot just on the edge of the canyon. They close the parking at 16h30, at 7h30 when I left it was open
Asphalt but hard road, many up and down very steep. Grocery’s in Bahuichivo and Areponapuchi

D26. 24/12/19 : Areponapuchi - Creel
51 km. 3h
Night : Hotel Real de Chapiltepec (400 pesos, nice hot shower)
Nice road, up and down, cold !

D27. 25/12/19 : Creel - Chihuahua- Durango
Weather forecast too cold and too windy for me to keep going towards Samachique - Guachochi - Parral on bike. Did not have à good feeling with the region neither, did not feel welcome, preferred not to take any risk. Took a bus at 10:15 to Chihuahua and then a night bus at 22:00 to Durango (arrived at 8:00) and got back that way to my original plan if I Had got a ferry to Mazatlan from La Paz

D28. 26/12/19 : Durango - Parque Sierra de Organos - Sombrerete
145 km. 6h30
Night : Hotel (500 pesos)
Nice secure road with lateral band. Beautiful landscapes around Sierra de Organos, met people very friendly all along the way

D29. 27/12/19 : Sombrerete - Fresnillo
109 km. 4h40
Night : Hotel Mexico on south side of the city (250 pesos)
Road quite busy but side life all the way

D30. 28/12/19 : Fresnillo - Zacatecas
59 km. 2h40
Night : hostel Cielito Lindo (230 pesos)
Road ok except some sections without side line

D31. 29/12/19 : rest in Zacatecas

D32. 30/12/19 : Zacatecas - Aguascalientes
119 km. 5h
Night : Miguel’s house (Warmshowers)
Took the 45D. First part a little dangerous, side line with holes, careful when it goes down. Busy road all the way, fortunately with a side line almost all the way

D33. 31/12/19 : rest in Aguascalientes 

D34. 01/01/20 : rest in Aguascalientes

D35. 02/01/20 : rest in Aguascalientes (rain)

D36. 03/01/20 : Aguascalientes - Guanajuato 
194 km. 8h25
Night : hostal Seis 7, calle de Alonso. 150 pesos, good
Took 45D to Lagos de Moreno, then took the south round link to 45 to Leon. You will find a cycle path from Parque Metropolitan (lake) to the beginning of 45. To Silao it’s awful, a lot of traffic, then better. Entering  Guanajuato is tricky. 

D37. 04/01/20 : rest in Guanajuato 

D38. 05/01/20 : Guanajuato - San Miguel de Allende 
80 km. 3h35
Night : Hostal La Catrina (160 pesos)
Nice road among hills. No side line but traffic cool

D39. 06/01/20 : rest in San Miguel

D40. 07/01/20 : San Miguel de Allende - Querétaro 
66 km. 2h50
Night : hostal La Girafa Roja (super, 220 pesos)
Crowed road to get in town, side line ok

D41. 08/01/20 : rest in Querétaro

D42. 09/01/20 : Querétaro - Tequisquiapan - Huichapan (road 200 and 30) - Nopala - Tula (road 21)
169 km. 7h
Night : hotel Quinta Bella (500 pesos)
Small nice roads with some section of bad pavement 

D43. 10/01/20 : Tula - Colonia Santa Teresa (road 87) - Huehuetoca - San Juan Zitlaltepec - Los Reyes Acozac - Tecamac - Teotihuacán (San Sebastian Xolalpa)
92 km. 4h25
Night : hotel Quetzalcalli, they have a nice campground for 200 pesos Busy roads among smalls towns but touching each other. Some terrible pavement 

D44. 11/01/20 : rest in Teotihuacán

D45. 12/01/20 : Teotihuacán - Ciudad de Mexico (Coyoacan)
67 km. 2h50
Night : house of my friends Alexandra and Olivier
Took 132D and 85D until Indios Verdes exit, quiet highway on a early sunday morning. Then Calzada de Guadalupe. Since it was sunday I took advantage of the Paseo Dominical : every sunday except the last one of the month, some boulevards are only opens to cyclists

D46. 13/01/20 : rest in Ciudad de México

D47. 14/01/20 : rest in Ciudad de México

D48. 15/01/20 : rest in Ciudad de México